Construction

Paver Calculator

Enter your patio size, pick a paver size and add a waste margin to find how many pavers you need.

Patio length (ft)

Patio width (ft)

Paver size

Waste allowance (%)

pavers needed

Patio area

Pavers / 100 sq ft

Waste added

Paver count is rounded up to whole pavers and includes your waste allowance for cuts and breakage.

Price per paver (optional)

How to use the paver calculator

Measure your patio's length and width in feet, choose a paver size from the list (or pick Custom and enter the paver's length and width in inches), then set a waste allowance for cuts and breakage. A 10% waste margin is a sensible default; bump it to 15% for diagonal or herringbone layouts that create more cut pieces. The paver calculator updates the total instantly.

How the math works

The idea is to divide the patio area by the area of a single paver, then add a margin for waste. Paver dimensions are in inches, so they are converted to square feet by dividing by 144:

Patio area (sq ft) = patio length × patio width
Paver area (sq ft) = (paver length × paver width) ÷ 144
Pavers = ceil( (patio area ÷ paver area) × (1 + waste ÷ 100) )

Worked example. For a 12 ft × 12 ft patio with 12×12 in pavers and 10% waste: patio area = 144 ft², paver area = (12×12)÷144 = 1 ft². So 144 ÷ 1 = 144 pavers, times 1.10 = 158.4, rounded up to 159 pavers.

Common paver sizes reference

Paver size	Area (sq ft)	Pavers / 100 sq ft *
4 × 8 in	0.22	495
6 × 6 in	0.25	440
6 × 9 in	0.38	294
12 × 12 in	1.00	110
16 × 16 in	1.78	62
24 × 24 in	4.00	28

* Counts include a 10% waste allowance and are rounded up. Always order full pavers in whole units and keep a few spares for future repairs, since dye lots can vary between batches.

How the laying pattern changes your count

The paver count above assumes a straightforward layout. The pattern you choose changes the waste figure significantly, because it decides how many units get cut and whether the offcuts are reusable.

Running bond / stack bond — rows offset by half, or aligned in a grid. Simplest to lay, minimal cutting, 5–10% waste.
Herringbone — 45° or 90° interlocking. The strongest pattern under vehicle loads because the interlock resists shifting, but every edge is a diagonal cut. Allow 15%, and 20% for the 45° version.
Basketweave — pairs alternating direction. Low waste in the field, but it demands rectangular pavers in a precise 2:1 ratio or the pattern will not close up.
Circular or curved edges — every perimeter unit is a radius cut that wastes most of the paver it came from. Allow 20% or more.

If you are paving a driveway, herringbone is worth the extra waste. The interlock is what stops pavers creeping under braking and turning loads.

What goes underneath

The paver count is only part of the order, and the layers below it are what determine whether the patio is still flat in five years:

Sub-base — 4 inches of compacted crushed stone for foot traffic, 6–8 inches for a driveway.
Bedding sand — 1 inch of sharp sand, screeded level. Do not use it thicker to level an uneven base; a deep sand layer ruts.
Jointing sand — brushed into the gaps at the end. Polymeric sand costs more but sets firm, resists weeds and does not wash out in heavy rain.

Budget for a plate compactor too — used on the sub-base, and again over the finished pavers with a rubber mat to bed them into the sand.

Edge restraints and spares

Every paved area needs something holding its perimeter. Without a restraint the outer units migrate outward, the joints open, and the pattern loses its interlock from the edge inward. Plastic or metal edging pinned into the sub-base is the usual solution; concrete haunching is stronger and permanent. This is the step most commonly skipped, and it is the most common reason a patio looks tired after two winters.

Finally, order more spares than the waste allowance implies. Concrete and clay pavers are produced in batches, and batches vary in colour. A cracked paver replaced three years later from new stock will not match. Half a dozen units on a shelf costs very little and is the difference between an invisible repair and an obvious patch.

Frequently asked questions

How many pavers do I need for a patio?

Divide the patio area by the area of one paver, then add a waste margin. A 12 × 12 ft patio with 12×12 in pavers and 10% waste needs about 159 pavers. Enter your own sizes above for an exact count.

How much waste should I add for pavers?

10% is standard for straight layouts. Add 15% or more for diagonal, circular or herringbone patterns, which produce more cut pieces. The waste percentage is adjustable in the tool.

How do I work out pavers per square foot?

Take 144 and divide it by the paver's length × width in inches to get pavers per square foot, then multiply by your area. The calculator also shows pavers per 100 sq ft for quick estimates.

Should I buy extra pavers?

Yes. Beyond the waste allowance, keep a small number of spares for future repairs. Pavers from a different production batch can vary slightly in colour, so matching later is harder.

Which laying pattern is best for a driveway?

Herringbone. The interlocking pattern resists the shifting caused by braking and turning vehicles far better than a stack or running bond. Allow 15–20% waste, since every edge is a diagonal cut.

Do I need edge restraints?

Yes. Without a restraint the perimeter pavers migrate outward, joints open up and the interlock fails from the edge inward. It's the most commonly skipped step and the most common reason a patio looks tired after a couple of winters.