Landscaping

Gravel Calculator

Enter your area's length, width and depth to find how many cubic yards, tons and cubic metres of gravel you need.

Length (ft)

Width (ft)

Depth (in)

cubic yards of gravel

Cubic feet

Tons (≈)

Cubic metres

Tonnage uses ≈ 1.4 US tons per cubic yard — density varies by gravel type, so treat the tons figure as an estimate.

Price per cubic yard (optional)

How to use the gravel calculator

Measure the area you want to cover in feet (length and width) and decide how deep the gravel layer should be in inches. For most driveways and paths a 2–3 inch depth works well; a deeper 4 inch base is common under pavers or for heavy traffic. Type the three numbers above and the gravel calculator instantly shows cubic yards, cubic feet, an estimated tonnage and cubic metres.

How the math works

The calculation is a simple volume, converted into the units suppliers use. Depth is in inches, so it is divided by 12 to turn it into feet before multiplying:

Cubic feet = length × width × (depth ÷ 12)
Cubic yards = cubic feet ÷ 27 (there are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard)
Tons (≈) = cubic yards × 1.4 (typical gravel weighs about 1.4 US tons per cubic yard)
Cubic metres = cubic feet × 0.0283168

Worked example. For a 10 ft × 10 ft area at 2 inches deep: cubic feet = 10 × 10 × (2 ÷ 12) = 16.7 ft³. Divide by 27 and you get about 0.62 cubic yards, which is roughly 0.87 tons and 0.47 cubic metres of gravel.

Gravel coverage reference

Area (ft)	Depth	Cubic yards
10 × 10	2 in	0.62
10 × 10	4 in	1.23
20 × 20	2 in	2.47
20 × 20	3 in	3.70
30 × 12	4 in	4.44

Because the weight of gravel depends on stone size, moisture and type (pea gravel, crushed stone, river rock), order a little extra and confirm the supplier's density when buying by the ton.

Choosing the right gravel

"Gravel" covers several materials that behave very differently, and picking the wrong one is a more expensive mistake than getting the quantity slightly off.

Crushed stone / MOT Type 1 — angular, with fines that lock together when compacted. This is the only sensible choice for a load-bearing sub-base under a driveway, patio or shed. The sharp edges knit; rounded stone does not.
Pea gravel — small, smooth and rounded. Comfortable underfoot and good looking, but it will not compact and it migrates, so it needs edging and is a poor base material.
River rock — larger and rounded, mostly decorative. Good for drainage beds and dry creek features, awkward to walk on.
Self-binding gravel — a graded mix that firms up into a semi-solid surface. A good compromise for paths that need to look loose but stay put.

How deep, and what compaction does to your order

Depth follows the load. A decorative bed or border needs only 2 inches. A footpath wants 2–3 inches over a membrane. A driveway carrying a car needs 4–6 inches of compacted sub-base, and more if the ground underneath is soft clay.

The word "compacted" matters for your estimate. Loose aggregate settles by roughly 20% when it is properly compacted with a plate, so 5 inches of loose stone becomes about 4 inches of finished base. If you order to the finished depth you will come up short. Order to the loose volume, or add the waste allowance and accept a slightly deeper base — which is never the wrong direction to err.

Compact in lifts too, not all at once. A plate compactor only densifies the top few inches, so a 6-inch base should go down as two 3-inch layers, each compacted before the next. This does not change how much you order, but it decides whether the material does its job.

Buying by the ton or the cubic yard

Suppliers quote either, and the two are not interchangeable without knowing the density. Crushed stone runs about 1.4 US tons per cubic yard, pea gravel a little less, and wet material more — water adds real weight, so a load delivered after rain gives you less stone per ton than the same load in dry weather.

For anything under about a cubic yard, bagged gravel from a builders' merchant is usually easier despite costing more per unit. Past roughly two cubic yards, bulk delivery is substantially cheaper, and a bulk bag (typically 0.5–0.8 cubic yards) sits in between. Whichever you choose, confirm whether the quoted price includes delivery — on small orders the haulage frequently costs more than the stone.

Frequently asked questions

How many cubic yards of gravel do I need?

Multiply length × width × depth (with depth in feet), then divide by 27. For a 10 × 10 ft area at 2 inches deep that's about 0.62 cubic yards. Enter your own measurements above for an instant figure.

How many tons is a cubic yard of gravel?

Typical gravel weighs roughly 1.4 US tons per cubic yard, so the calculator uses that factor. Heavier crushed stone can be 1.5 tons or more, so confirm density with your supplier.

How deep should a gravel layer be?

Paths and decorative beds usually need 2 inches, driveways 3–4 inches, and a load-bearing base under pavers around 4 inches. Deeper layers need proportionally more gravel.

Does the calculator account for gravel type?

It estimates tonnage at 1.4 tons per cubic yard, a sensible average. Pea gravel, river rock and crushed limestone differ slightly, so use the cubic-yard figure as the most reliable number.

Which gravel should I use for a driveway base?

Angular crushed stone (MOT Type 1 or similar), not pea gravel. The sharp edges and fines lock together under compaction; rounded stone stays loose and will rut under a car.

Does gravel settle after it's laid?

Yes — loose aggregate compacts by roughly 20%. Five inches of loose stone finishes at about four, so order to the loose volume rather than the finished depth.